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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.